DIVING & SNORKELING in MARATHON & the MIDDLE KEYS

Plunge into the crystal waters surrounding Marathon & the Middle Keys and experience the magical undersea landscape of America’s only living coral reef. The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary stretches 220 miles along the archipelago, from Key Biscayne to beyond the Dry Tortugas. The warm Gulf Stream currents keep the Atlantic Ocean waters so clear that visibility can surpass 120 feet, making the Keys a dream for experienced Scuba divers and young snorkelers alike.

Interact with the 600+ species of aquatic creatures living offshore of the Florida Keys, including dolphin, eels, barracuda, sharks, whales, rays, manatees, and hundreds of fish. Among the famous are multihued Mahi Mahi; exotic Sailfish, Swordfish, and Marlin; and giant Jewfish—look for them around the deeper wrecks. Venture away from the main arc of the barrier coral reef to explore the patch reefs, sea grass meadows, and mangrove islands, all of which support different species of marine life.

An interesting experience is night diving, which will reveal an entirely different class of creature than those that are active during daylight hours. Many charters offer this option, and it’s best not to attempt to navigate the reefs yourself by starlight, when minor miscalculations can damage coral or set you on your way to Africa. Boats are available for rental, or you can launch your own. Never worry about having forgotten to pack your gear, because nowhere else on the planet are there are more dive shops per square mile. Plus, most charter outfits will rent whatever you need, so leave your heavy air tank at home.

Swim through the 8-foot natural coral arch at Sombrero Reef while someone snaps your picture with an underwater camera. Marked by the Sombrero Beach lighthouse, Sombrero Reef lies in 6 – 25 feet of water, so it’s accessible by snorkelers. Sombrero Reef is among the Keys’ most popular dive sites, as people are drawn to the well-defined coral spurs and the wide diversity of tropical fish. Nurse sharks lie in the sand between coral fingers, eels wind between crevices, and graceful rays drift around the reef. Located southwest of Marathon.

Snorkelers can easily reach the coral canyons of Delta Shoal reef, and will be entranced by the thousands of fish that inhabit the area. Divers should investigate the remnants of the Ivory Wreck, the remains of a slave ship that ran aground in 1853 while transporting ivory tusks. It’s very near Sombrero Reef, so you can visit both sites on a single trip.

In 1986, the Florida Keys Artificial Reef Association sank the 188-foot Thunderbolt at approximately MM 20, offshore of Key Colony. The wreck now attracts large grouper (perhaps even a couple Jewfish), sharks, and sea turtles that haunt the spaces behind gaping doorways and portholes—all of which were removed before she was scuttled. The Thunderbolt rests upright, with a staircase and her twin propellers intact. Though she began her service as an Army ship, Florida Power and Light Co. purchased the ship, outfitted her with electronics, and sent her into lightning storms to gather data. This former research ship is a dive best lest to the experienced scuba diver, as the Thunderbolt lies below 120 feet of water, though the superstructure begins around 74 feet.

Coffin's Patch is a half-mile collection of six patch reefs each composed of a different coral, and all crawling with protected Spiny and Spanish lobsters. Photographers enjoy the diversity and are particularly drawn to the Elkhorn coral and brain coral sections. Named for and marked by a remnant of a lighthouse destroyed by the 1935 hurricane, the Stake is the most popular site within the Coffin’s Patch reef system. Search for detritus of the Spanish Galleon Ignacio, a treasure ship wrecked here during a 1733 hurricane. Other, more easily located wrecks include El Capitan, the San Jose, the San Pedro, and El Infante. Coffin’s Patch only reaches 20 feet in depth, and the Stake comes within 7 feet of the surface, making the entire area ideal for snorkeling.

A shallow reef called the Porkfish, named for its most populous resident, surrounds the Adelaide Baker wreck. In 1889, she was bound for Savannah laden with timber when she wrecked on Coffins Patch reef. Look for nurse sharks, angelfish, moray eels, and sea fans. Both wreck and reef lay in only 20 feet of water off Duck Key.

Yellow Rocks is an expansive set of 200-yard-long ledges in 12 to 25 feet of water. Located 4.5 miles south of Key Colony, Yellow Rocks is a great spot for lobster, nurse sharks, and barracuda. Though Yellow Rocks is an older reef, it’s still very popular.

View a wide array of sponges along the wall of the Gap, which ranges in depth from 50 feet to 80 feet. Divers may also be greeted by lesser-seen pelagic species such as sunshine fish.

The Horseshoe is a favorite night-dive spot since it’s easily navigated and attracts reef octopus. Novice divers can get their bearings here, too, before venturing to deeper sites.

Named for a friendly 6-foot nurse shark, Samantha's Reef reaches 25 feet in depth and features a ledge. Other, less renowned nurse and reef sharks are also generally docile.

Ranging in depth from 15 to 30 feet, Herman’s Hole is a circular coral ridge named for a green moray eel. Located midway between Samantha’s Reef and Delta Shoal.

A half-mile east of the Stake lay Pillar City, the largest concentration of rare pillar coral in the Keys. Standing several feet tall, these coral formations resemble cacti or a small metropolis. The pillars rest in depths between 20 and 35 feet, so snorkelers should consider hookah diving—the surface-fed air hose requires no certification but allows much more freedom. Though heavily damaged by anchors and over-visitation, the pillars have slowly begun to recuperate and will hopefully regain the splendor they displayed in the early 1980s. Three hundred feet from Pillar City is Lobster Ledge. Naturally, it’s inhabited by large numbers of Florida Spiny lobsters, but also attracts angelfish and eels. There are still no mooring buoys around the reef; please visit only with an experienced captain.

The Angustias Wreck, part of the 1733 treasure fleet, lays 75 below the surface. Only advanced divers should attempt this wreck, as strong currents sweep the area and large sharks troll the bottom.

An especially savvy charter captain can steer divers to the dozens of lesser-known wrecks littering the seabed surrounding the Middle Keys. Among those rarely traveled by the general public are a brick-laden schooner, a mysterious galleon, and a wreck known as the Barge. At 22 feet deep and in a highly photogenic area, the Barge is an excellent opportunity for a novice wreck dive.

CORAL REEF PRESERVATION & REGULATIONS

Remember that the 2,800 square nautical miles of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary are protected, and it’s illegal to touch, disturb, or remove any plant, animal, or coral (living or dead) from the area. Please use caution to avoid damaging coral through inadvertent contact with your fins or other equipment. Dive flags are mandatory, even for snorkelers. For complete regulations, visit http://floridakeys.noaa.gov/